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Open today 9:00 - 17:00
March marks the beginning of more active growth in the garden as daylight increases, buds begin to open and the soil gradually warms. It is an important month for early sowing and planting, pruning several groups of shrubs and roses, dividing perennials and preparing borders and vegetable beds, although cold, wet or frosty conditions can still delay many jobs.
Continue planting deciduous trees, shrubs and hedging while they are still dormant. Bare-root planting should be completed before plants come into active growth, and planting should wait if the ground is frozen or waterlogged.
March is still suitable for planting bare-root roses, particularly in colder areas or on heavier soils where earlier planting may have been difficult. Container-grown roses can also be planted when soil conditions are suitable.
Plant hardy summer-flowering bulbs such as lilies and gladioli where conditions are suitable. More tender plants and tubers, including dahlias, can be started in pots under cover and protected from frost until they can be planted outside later in spring.
Lift and divide congested clumps of many summer and autumn-flowering herbaceous perennials as they begin to come into growth. Replant healthy divisions promptly and water them in if conditions are dry.
Position supports around tall-growing perennials while new shoots are still small. Plants such as delphiniums and other tall border perennials can then grow naturally through their supports.
Plant first early potatoes from March when the soil is workable and beginning to warm. Avoid planting into cold, saturated ground, as planting can be delayed without significantly affecting the eventual crop.
Plant onion and shallot sets into prepared soil once conditions are suitable. Avoid working heavy or waterlogged ground and protect newly planted sets if birds repeatedly pull them from the soil.
In mild areas with light, workable soil, hardy crops including broad beans, peas, carrots, parsnips, spinach, beetroot, radishes and salad leaves can be sown outside during March. In colder areas or on heavy soils, wait until the ground has warmed sufficiently rather than sowing simply according to the calendar.
Sow tomatoes and chillies indoors or in a heated greenhouse where they can receive sufficient warmth and light. These tender crops need protection from low temperatures throughout their early growth.
Hardy annuals such as cornflowers, calendula and nigella can be sown outdoors when the soil is workable and beginning to warm. In colder areas, sowing can be delayed or started under cover.
Remove weeds and prepare beds for spring sowing and planting as conditions allow. Add well-rotted organic matter where needed, but avoid digging or walking over wet soil as this can damage its structure.
Prune established bush and standard roses as they begin to grow but before the leaves fully unfurl. Remove dead, damaged, diseased and crossing growth and prune according to the type and vigour of the rose.
Prune mophead and lacecap hydrangeas as new growth begins, removing old flowerheads back to a strong pair of buds. Avoid treating all hydrangeas alike, as pruning requirements differ between species and types.
Cut back established dogwoods and willows that are grown specifically for their colourful young stems. Hard pruning in early spring encourages vigorous new growth that provides the strongest winter stem colour.
March is a good time to prune many deciduous shrubs that flower later in the year on new growth, including Buddleja davidii and hardy fuchsias. Do not apply the same treatment to spring-flowering shrubs, which may lose this year’s flowers if pruned now.
Remove faded daffodil and other spring bulb flowers if you do not want them to set seed, but leave the foliage intact. Allow the leaves to die back naturally so they can replenish the bulbs for next year’s display.
Weeds begin to grow more quickly as temperatures rise. Hoe or remove them while they are small, taking care around emerging shoots and newly germinated seedlings.
Check vulnerable young growth as perennials and other plants begin emerging. Use suitable controls where necessary, particularly around seedlings and tender new shoots.
Apply an appropriate feed to roses and other plants that benefit from additional nutrients as growth resumes. Use a suitable ericaceous fertiliser when feeding acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons, camellias and blueberries.
Apply a layer of well-rotted organic matter around established fruit trees and bushes while the soil is moist and weed-free. Keep mulch away from trunks and woody stems.
Early blossom on fruit trees and bushes can be damaged by late frosts. Protect vulnerable plants when frost is forecast, removing or opening covers during the day so pollinating insects can reach the flowers.
Refresh established shrubs and other long-term container plants by removing some of the old compost from the surface and replacing it with fresh compost. Check whether congested plants would benefit from repotting instead.
Open greenhouse vents and doors when conditions are mild and sunny to prevent excessive heat and humidity. Close them again before temperatures fall later in the day.
Plants under cover and in containers may begin using more water as temperatures and light levels increase. Check compost regularly rather than watering automatically, as cool conditions can still keep pots wet for longer.
Resume mowing established lawns when the grass is actively growing and conditions are dry enough. Keep the first cuts relatively high and avoid mowing wet, waterlogged or frosty lawns.
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Where daffodils, crocuses or other spring bulbs grow through grass, leave their foliage uncut for around six weeks after flowering. This allows the leaves to replenish the bulbs before the area is mown.
Visit us in Kington for plants, seeds, tools and garden care products for the start of the growing season. Our team can also offer practical advice on spring planting, sowing and caring for your garden as growth gets underway.
